CHAPTER THREE: A CASTLE IN THE SAND
The prospect of finding a ‘home away from home’ was titillating. The wishing-well of possibilities was bottomless. I stepped back to take stock of my situation and to ask myself some pertinent questions.
What type of lodging are you looking for? What floats your boat and rocks your world? Remember, this won’t be a hotel room with daily maid service, this is where the towels will pile up until you, do the laundry. There will also be no doorman or security guard. You will be flying solo and responsible for your own safety. I reflected on these quandaries.
Winsome, warm, welcoming.. these were the adjectives that came to mind…. oh and one more… unlimited. I desperately desired unlimited access to the sea… the sun.. and time. That was really all. I had no interest in pretension or grandeur and I didn’t give a rat’s ass about a snooty, restrictive community. What I wanted was a nest. A fluffy, feather lined nest with really cool cooking utensils. I chuckled at this image but knew that it was totally true.
I segued back to the task at hand with my mind boggled by the fact that I was sitting in front of my computer in Virginia, arranging the next chapter of my life which would occur in the country of France. In the old days, vacation plans were set into motion by telephone calls, visiting a travel agent or consulting newspaper ads. Now, you see a pretty picture on the internet, containing more information than a novella, and close the deal with an email. This instant gratification was a little disturbing. Gulping a hearty sip of wine (yes, again)and flexing my fingers, I began by typing the words ‘rental properties in Collioure’ on the Google search page. Bam! I was blitzed with listings, each appearing more alluring than the other. One residence displayed a gleaming kitchen with jalousie windows, whereby another showcased a sprawling living room that surrounded an enormous brick fireplace. There were some with one bedroom and one bath, while others boasted two, three or four of each. I also spied a townhouse that touted “a succulent grape vineyard right in your own backyard.” This was fun, so I lifted my glass and supped on my own succulent grape while continuing my search. The next ad showed a shady, corner apartment overlooking a verdant hillside. The inventory stretched for hundreds of pages which had me thinking that perhaps, like Amazon.com, Google was duplicating images. You know, just in case you missed it on the first go-round.
I could feel my frustration building when I noticed a link at the bottom of the page directing me to ‘privately owned’ home rentals. Although this new website also contained pretty pictures, my lake of dwelling choices had just shrunk to a pond of ‘houses only.’ Gone were the apartments, condominiums and lofts. Now we were cookin!.
The first specimen I landed on contained three snapshots of a private listing that instantly lassoed my attention. The first photo displayed a cerulean portal that was framed by pots of geranium and ivy whose colorful contents spilled from their containers and climbed up the stone walls. The vines and blossoms wove their way upward, gaining footholds in rocky crevasses, as they reached for the sun-blistered, third story window shutters. An uneven cobblestone street abutted this floral entryway, creating a welcoming invitation.
I ceased admiring the photograph to read the caption beneath: “Authentic fisherman’s two bedroom, two bath house nestled between the Pyrenées and the Mediterranean Sea. Located in the Old Quarter of picturesque Collioure, it is easy walking distance to shopping, market, fort, and churches. The streets are narrow cobblestone and unreachable by car. Views from the third story window include a centuries old chateau, a quintessential bell tower, and four beaches.” The list of accoutrements continued: Washer/dryer, kitchen supplies, linens, stereo, DVD player, books, games, internet… But wait a minute. Did it say four beaches that I could see from my window?
I directed my attention to photo number two which bespoke of a beautifully equipped country kitchen where dried flowers were hanging upside down in the open, sun filled window. The adjacent homey sitting room embraced an overstuffed sofa and desk. Moving on to photo three, I beheld a slender stone stairway that led directly up to the master bath and sky lit bedchamber. I gawked like a sailor staring at a naked lady. The opus in my head, had just materialized and lay completely exposed before me.
I looked no further. I inherently knew that the golden ring from the carousel had been snagged. The tingling in my chest was identical to what I had felt when I uncovered the village of Collioure. Sensing that all of my desires rested just the other side of that blue wooden door, I weighed my current mortgage against the rent on this property. It was confusing as the listing was in Euros per week, as opposed to dollars per month. I nervously did the math, (not my strong point) for I was determined to spend no more than I was currently paying. By my shaky computation, the fees appeared to be relatively parallel. (Hot damn!)
Fit out with this knowledge, I sent an immediate email to the contact address. I needed more details from a breathing body, not just an internet windbag. Within hours I had a return email from ‘Vacation Homes In France.’ It contained a personal greeting from someone named Madeline Hensley. I discovered that Madeline was British and although she owned as well as resided in this mini villa by the sea, she rented it out quite regularly as an income supplement. Her sister and sons were home based in Manchester England, so there was always a spare bed should hers become occupied by a stranger. She pleasantly and politely corresponded with me. I confided to her that I had never before done anything this preposterous and wondered if the weekly rental rates might be converted to a two month lease.
The very next day she replied.“I think that could be arranged. When do you suppose you’d like to book?”
“September” I wrote back immediately, “Mid-September. And I plan to stay through mid-November. Do you think this might be possible?” I nervously pressed SEND, crossed my fingers and awaited her return email.
Although it might have been considered impulsive, I had no misgivings. I discerned I was spot-on! But until I had confirmation from her, I could not rest easy. Appreciating the saying, “don’t put all your eggs in one basket,” I cursorily glanced at alternate accommodations. I felt I should make comparisons and have a back-up plan (or as my Dad would have said, “something to fall back on.”) So I went through the obligatory motions, but nothing rang my bell or tooted my horn. Hell, nothing even tapped my shoulder. I felt like a miner, drugged by the prospect of what lay just beneath the earth’s surface. Could this enchanting find be my nugget of gold?… Was I about to hit pay dirt?
Because the wait for her reply seemed endless, the skeptic in me stepped up. What if she says it’s not available? What if the rates have escalated and I can no longer afford it? What if I am finalizing my decision too quickly and there is something better out there? So I lackadaisically resumed my quest, already sensing that nothing else would strike my fancy.
It took five days of incessant email checking to finally find the ‘You Got Mail’ icon waiting at the end of a miserable work day. Five days of repetitious box checking and disappointment had just come to an end. At long last, her reply was here. I cautiously opened it, fearful of her answer.
“Good Day Jaime. So sorry for the delay. I’ve been paying a visit to my sister in England and only just found your post. Weather here has been……” And she carried on and on like a teeny-weeny sparrow, skipping from one berry bush to another.
Dammit Madeline, I silently bellowed, finding myself far too impatient to be pleasured by her innocuous ramblings. Get on with it! Do we have a deal or not!?
I skipped ahead, compressing her words until I found the one’s I had been longing for….“And of course, your preferred dates can most assuredly be accommodated. It will be simply lovely to have you here. I do however require a 20% deposit in Sterling. Do give it some thought Jaime and please present me your decision.” I could barely contain myself as I finished her post. “I look so forward to answering any and all other questions as well as making your acquaintance.” (Don’t ya just love the British?)
So after sitting on the edge of my seat for nearly a week, I found myself in a bubble bath of resolve. I didn’t understand why, but I knew with zero hesitation, that I was fated for this cottage, the same way I had been destined for the perfect house that I live in now.
The ‘perfect house’ as I have previously referenced; the place I come home to every day in Virginia, has a story of course. Part of it’s perfection is that it is not like anyone else’s. It is an unexpected treasure to every new visitor who comes. It had also been an unexpected treasure to me the first time I beheld it. My family had been house hunting over fifteen years ago when one day the realtor and I stumbled on this jewel. It had not been in the local listings and could not be viewed from the street, but the mailbox wore a lock box. As we strolled up the brick walkway, I was struck by the fact that it was a hidden oasis built entirely of cedar and glass.
Already seduced, we walked inside and I immediately fell in love—with the rooms, the floors, the exposed beams, but mostly the views from the floor to ceiling windows. Through the years, this house has comforted and loved me back. Many Christmases with ceiling-high trees, have enveloped this house, which has always been and remains my “dream home.”
So that I felt as I did about the unseen treasure in France, radiated familiarity. I had not just found a watering hole, I had found a home. My needs had all been met. The petite anchovy village of Collioure, which just two weeks prior, had been a total unknown, now became my new Mecca. Rue de la Liberté on the sunny shores of the Mediterranean Sea was about to become my new address. And the puzzle which had seemed gothic in size and number of pieces, suddenly felt quite manageable. With location and lodging in my pocket, I could now face the curious reporters.







